California - Napa - 2009 Part III

     The ferry ride was relaxing up on deck in the warm sun. I am beginning to appreciate that there are folks who actually know what it is like to have sun in winter! Landing on the island was quite a thrill. I had forgotten about the Indian occupation during the 60’s but as soon as I saw the building with “This is Indian Land” graffitied on it, it all came back. We listened to a welcome talk by a Ranger and then proceeded inside where we watched a really good movie on the history of the island. I learned a lot I’d never known and it was also nice to just sit in the cool, cave-like room and listen. An old physical ailment had flared up, and I was most comfortable just sitting for a bit. I walked a bit, but Lar continued on up to the cells, while I sat down the hill on a bench and stared both out to the water and in to the remnants of an old building that had served as an officers’ social club and had had other purposes as well. I could hear the music of the day, hear the rustling of the dresses, hear the tinkling of ice in glasses. Alcatraz is an island with a lot of ghosts, and you feel them at every turn.
     When Larry had rejoined me, we took a few more pictures and got in line for the return ferry. This time we sat below deck and people watched. Back at the Wharf we had an hour and one half to kill until we would be picked up and taken back to the hotel. It wasn’t far, but I was still not up to walking. We noticed Houston’s across the street and crossed the busy street to see if we could get a drink and a snack while we waited. As we were not having dinner, we were quickly whisked away from their front patio dining area and invited to sit out back. I liked it ever so much better back there! It was like a little grotto in the city, peaceful. We got special attention from the manager/bar tender and enjoyed some local beer – Anchor Steam – and an appetizer of spinach and avocado dip, chips, salsa and sour cream. The dip was piping hot and we couldn’t have enjoyed our wait any better.
     It was about time for our bus, so we ambled back and sat to wait. A teenaged girl in her work uniform approached and asked if she could borrow one of our phones to make a call home for a ride. Isn’t it a shame to know that we were immediately on guard and suspicious? There was a time when that wouldn’t have happened. Anyway, I dialed her grandmother’s number for her and she did, indeed need a ride and that was that. Just a reminder of where we are going, and how much I’d like to take a ride back in time to a less suspicious, more trusting era.
     Our bus finally arrived and we were back at our hotel, taking a rest in the air conditioning before venturing out for dinner. I fell asleep and could not be revived, so Larry went out and bought salads and a sandwich from Boudins, came back and was able to see the Phillies win this particular World Series game. He called home to tell our daughter in law Colleen to tone down her celebrating as we could hear her from California! We discovered Julia (7 year old) was suffering from the swine flu. It didn’t sound as if she had it too bad, but it did make us worry.
     Tuesday 3 November

     Since I'd had a bout of physical discomfort yesterday, we decided to forgo the sunrise on the Wharf plan, and instead, slept in until folks at home were slaving away! Great comfort, that feeling! We wasted away, reading, drinking really nasty in-room coffee, and I ironed some of our "rolled so they wouldn't wrinkle" clothing. Beautiful warm sun was streaming into our room as we dressed and then repacked for our road trip to Napa.
     Today we went next door to I Hop for breakfast. We were served by a gentleman from the Philippines named Bill. We chatted at length with him and one thing he said stuck with us. "The most valuable thing the Americans have given us is the idea of education." As we spoke with him, it made us think of our young friend Mike who has just moved to the area, and the fact that we hadn't discovered how to reach him. We would have liked to have at least said hello. Maybe next time. Walking back to the hotel we turned our faces to the warmth of the sun. We are looking forward to more of that!
     The drive was made easy thanks to "Pete" and we soon found ourselves in Napa. As we were right in front, we decided to make an early stop at our B&B the Hennissey House and check on our reservations. We received such a warm welcome from "Jenny" who guided me to the nearest "facilities" and then proceeded to offer advice, maps, and all sorts of information. And then she said she could make our room available immediately which was a very welcome surprise. We moved in a few things and at Jenny's suggestion, made our dinner reservations at one of the nearly dozen recommended restaurants. We had chosen Pearl. Then we left for the Oxbow Open Market to have lunch. We ate at Taylor's. They feature all natural, "humanely grown" meats and other food items. Lar reported his burger to be "the best ever" and my awesome veggie burger on whole grain bun was delicious. Then we strolled through the market and I was desperately wishing I could actually shop! Stalls of wondrous olive oils and presses, tasting of the oils, antiques, meats, organic produce, organic ice cream......Wait!....ice cream? Of course we can't pass that particular stall. Lar had to try some. He chose a small, delicious, rich pumpkin flavor. It was truly yummy, but it took a long time to digest and he still tasted it hours later.
     Although we were having an official tour tomorrow, we took a leisurely drive through the vineyards on our own and really relaxed. Gorgeous vines, some with leaves of deep burgundies and cherry reds, and vineyard names some of which we knew. It was so reminiscent of the movie Sideways - we've watched it numerous times.
     Our drive back to the B&B was hysterical! "Pete" somehow decided he should take us into an apartment complex and then refused to give us directions out! Kept saying, "turn right into ..... apartment complex." We did it once, but he kept saying "turn right" "turn right" "turn right" and after we'd driven in a complete circle within their parking area, we decided we just might be on our own! “Recalculating.”
     Our room was so comfortable, featuring a working fireplace, canopied bed, small sitting area with comfy chairs; we had no urgency to leave. We each took a chair, read and chatted until I was drowsy. I lay down for about 10 minutes, while Lar continued to read. In a little while we got ready and went down stairs to wine and cheese. We enjoyed the red (forgot to write it down) and nice cheeses, grapes and crackers. Our hostess insisted we also try a white which was, to us, very unforgettable. In fact, neither of us drank more than a sip.
     Fellow travelers were two young couples, one an intern and his wife from Manhattan (originally from CA) and the other an EMT, formerly a police officer and his wife now living in Iowa, where they had relocated for the wife’s job. They were bright, positive professionals and the conversation was lively. Medicine, crime, education - all that and more was covered. They talked about their travel abroad and about the fact that they firmly believe that medicine in the U. S. is the best, overall, in the world. We truly enjoyed their company and the manner in which they all four were starting life (so young!) in such a positive manner. When it was time to leave for our dinner reservations, we said an almost reluctant goodbye.
     Pearl! What a taste sensation awaited us. As we entered the tiny restaurant we were welcomed by an anteroom full of tables dedicated to Day of the Dead. We could tell immediately that this would be a family-full, intimate experience. My dinner consisted of Thai chicken soup with curry and cream....omg! It was so good. Then soft polenta, roasted tomatoes and glazed vegetables. I have no words for the perfection of this meal. Lar enjoyed halibut on a bed of chard and black beans. Wonderful! Our delightfully sweet server hugged me as we departed, and when I said "muchas gracious" I could not have meant it more.
     We pulled out things we would need from the trunk of the car and went in to our room where port and chocolates were awaiting us, and quiet music filled the corners and slowly filtered down upon us.  No TV might sound a bit frightening, but it can be so good for the soul.